Day Five

Clouds whisper
Beauty’s secret across the sky
Blown away

– Kindergood

Pamplona to Puente La Reina
I woke early feeling that it was going to be a good day.

Fi was also feeling good and I’d say both our injuries had improved by 70%. We got ourselves ready and were walking by 6.25am. It was going to be a hot day so an early start was helpful.

We followed the shells set in the pavement out of Pamplona, walked through Cizar for sunrise and stopped for some breakfast in Zariquegui which is about 12km from Pamplona. 


We were walking through spectacular Spanish countryside and the morning light just added to the breathtaking beauty. I felt deep gratitude.

When we got to the summit of Alto De Perdon (800m) Fi was elated. Yesterday she thought she wouldn’t make it. 


We could see the villages we would be heading through today stretched out in front of us. The vista went to the horizon. I was struck by a sense of awe that we would be walking across that horizon.


Looking at the metal silhouette statues at the summit we both felt we had reached a significant milestone.

Following the path down the sense of gratitude deepened in me and I found myself spontaneously repeating the mantra “Om Mani Padme Hum” as I walked. My heart overflowed and tears rolled down my cheeks. I recalled the poem by Rumi

I am so small I can barely be seen.
How can this great love be inside me?
Look at your eyes. They are small,
but they see enormous things.

– Rumi

It was a beautiful experience that continued until we reached Obanos and I had to regain my composure and look for accommodation.

Now I have a deeper understanding of why people do this walk.


The albergues we tried in Obanos were closed, probably due to what I will call the big doll festival that was taking place. 


We decided to carry on to Puente La Reina which was taxing as the temperature was now 30 degrees. 

In contrast to the traditional folk flute and drums in Obanos, as we walked through Puente La Reina there was a biker gathering with “Highway to Hell” reverberating through the narrow streets. That tickled me.

Today we walked about 26km in 8 hours and the significance of the pilgrimage awakened in me.

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